This Is a Feline World - Part I
04th March 2020
Since the mid XXth century, jewelers are highly inspired by the fierce walk and sensual lines of the cat family. Gracious yet powerful, the panthere, leopard, lion and tiger are roaring through the figurative and abstract creations of the most recognized jewelry brands.
Cartier, FRED, Chanel, Gucci and many others, take us on board for a thrilling trip with the most majestic animals of the world.
Boucheron Advertisements with Wladimir Cat.
Cartier undoubtedly initiated the movement of animal jewelry thanks to the disruptive creativity of Jeanne Toussaint, Artistic Director in the 1930s’. This trend started with figurative representations of exotic animals such as birds, turtles and the inevitable Panthère that became the ultimate icon of the French jeweller. Declined in all versions, the panther always appears powerful yet gracious, sometimes protecting a precious stone, sometimes ready to jump over the fingers, it embodies femininity and character.
Panthère Jewelry, Cartier
To reproduce the fur effect, Cartier jewelers invented a special technique for setting the stone: the gold thread is twisted around the stones in order to create movement and relief. Furthermore, the paved is composed of various sizes of diamonds which emphasizes perspective and volume. This is also highlighted by the specific cut of the onyx stones (sometimes sapphires), representing the spots of animal. The traits of the panther are extremely refined, with a daring look and elegant lines: the white gold ears and paws are precisely sculpted, the legs and head can sometimes be articulated, and the eyes are most of the time intensified by a pear-cut emerald, in the high jewellery collections.
Additionally, Cartier designs several tigers interpreted with yellow gold and black onyx stripes that are also appreciated by the male clientele.
Panthère de Cartier
Last year, Gucci launched its very first high jewelry collection, Hortus Deliciarum that features malefic animals, carnivorous plants and mystic characters. The lion is a consequent figure in Gucci world, which repetitively appears in jewelry, biting an opal, circling around the finger or protecting a mystery dial. It shows hostility with its sharp golden teeth and its fierce look. Furthermore, the animal is represented with an open jaw that states its aggressiveness and power. To counterbalance, it is associated with exotic flowers and colorful gemstones that bring a touch of femininity and smooth the overall design. These daring creations aim at strong women that assume their personality and independence.
Hortus Deliciarum, HJ Collection Gucci, 2019. Legends on pictures.
Boucheron has a deep love for its lucky charm, Wladimir. The fluffy black cat was belonging to Frédéric Boucheron, son of the brand’s founder, back in the 1970s’. It was considered to contribute to the homey feeling at the Vendome Mansion, as it was particularly affectionate and friendly with the clients. This fortunate pet played an important role in the Maison communications and advertisements. It would wear diamond necklaces, bite golden rings and play with the chain of the Jack collection. Boucheron was inspired by this adorable story and created several rings depicting Wladimir with a full paved head, for the Paris Vu du 26 high jewellery collection in 2019.
Before that, the French brand designed a Ménagerie collection including a few feline rings with tiger and leopard heads protecting a colorful center stone. With its mischievous creations, the Kering jeweler reveals a playful side in this prestigious sector.
Feline Jewels, Boucheron. Legends on pictures.
Click here to discover the complete cat selection: This Is a Feline World - Part II