Put a Watch On It
12th March 2019
Because wristwatch is too mainstream let’s focus on a more disruptive concept: the ring watch. The challenge here remains in the creation of an extremely thin and tiny dial to mount on the ring.
These cute timepieces were especially popular during the Art Deco period and we can now find some of these vintages pieces during auctions sales.
Cartier is an expert in these specific creations: the French luxury brand uses the tiniest caliber made by Jaeger LeCoultre, the JLC 101. The miniaturization of the mechanism is a real feat as it integrates a manual mechanical movement in a 14mm long and 5mm large piece. Composed of 98 elements, it is the world smallest mechanical movement ever made since 1929. It obviously requires extreme precision, know-how and patience!
The presented ring from 1937 is a typical example of the Art Deco style ring watch with its geometric design. It presents a tiny square dial surrounded by 82 brilliant and baguette cut diamonds mounted on platinum. The movement is signed JLC as seen previously. Estimated between 30-50K CHF, this timepiece was sold for 149K CHF at Sotheby’s Auctions in Geneva, 2014.
Another Cartier masterpiece, this fantastic panthère is protecting a secret watch set on an onyx ring.
The creation is composed of more than 800 diamonds spread on both panthère and dial. The precious ring keeps its secret quartz watch under an onyx disc that can be raised to unveil the time.
Art Deco Watch Ring, Cartier, 1937.
JLC 101 Caliber, Jaeger LeCoultre.
Panthère Watch Ring, Cartier, 2013.
Because we can't get enough of Cartier's surprising creations, here is another masterpiece taking inspiration from the parrot. The diamonds feathers are covering the mother of pearl dial. More than 600 brilliants are set on the whole ring and bezel.
Parrot Watch Ring, Cartier, 2013.
Steven Grotel is very talented for delicate jewellery watches. In 2016, he unveiled this surprising ring composed of white gold mounting, mother of pearl dial, rock crystal center stone and 347 diamonds totaling 3.70 cts. The Art Deco inspiration is recalled in the octagonal dial, the geometric and symmetric design. These pieces are only visible at Fiona Druckenmiller’s FD Gallery in Manhattan. Prices range from $22-$44K USD.
Rock Crystal Watch Ring, Steven Grotel.
It is difficult to miss the all paved ring watches of Graff Diamonds. Existing in sapphire, emerald, ruby and all diamond versions, the secret dials are unveiled by sliding the jewelled dome. Graff once more proves its ingenuity, creativity and taste for challenges.
Paved Secret Watch Rings, Graff Diamonds.