Proud & Colorful Peacocks

6th February 2019

Symbol of integrity, nobility and protection, the peacock is an important creativity theme for designers. Its large palette of colors and its refinement make it a perfect source of inspiration. This glorious bird is recognized in different area:
-In India, it is declared as the national bird, linked to traditions and religions
-In Christianity, the peacock is a symbol of immortality and holiness
-In Asia, it is associated to wealth and royalty
-In Europe, it was very much represented in the Art Nouveau movement, translating freedom and femininity

Nowadays, jewelers love to interpret this animal in different ways, using all kind of colorful gemstones. 

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Peacock Feather, Boucheron 1883.
Diamonds & White Gold. 

Peacock Choker by Mellerio dits Meller
Part of a peacock jewellery serie, this unique collar has been created by Maison Mellerio dits Meller in 1900.

The first attraction of this piece is the green and blue enamel representing the feather’s eye. The colors are delicate and the effect is definitely realistic. What actually caught my attention the most is the very fine yellow gold pavé feathers: they seem to drift around the eye. This impression of feather’s movement creates an extremely light and aerial choker.

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Peacock Choker, Mellerio dits Meller, 1900. Enamel, Diamonds & Yellow Gold. 

Peacock Feather Question Mark Necklace by Boucheron
Impossible to miss the iconic Point d’Interrogation collection which name describes the light and elegant shape of the necklace. The “question mark” is an open piece which particularity is that one end is longer than the other, sliding in the neckline. This unique design perfectly adapts to a peacock feather, which length and lightness allow the craftsman to twist it around the neck. First introduced in 1883, Boucheron is largely exploiting the theme, offering spectacular creations like this one.

Part of the Trouble Désir Collection (2005), this gracious necklace is composed of brilliant-cut tsavorites, spessartite garnets, rubies, sapphires and diamonds, set on a black gold mounting. These rainbow colors accentuate the deep and large cushion-cut sapphire of 40.88 carats (Ceylon origin).

This colorful and unique edition was sold by Sotheby’s for 375.000 CHF, in November 2018, Geneva.

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Peacock Feather Question Mark Necklace, Boucheron, 2005. Sapphires, Diamonds, Rubies, Tsavorites, Garnets & Black Gold. 

Peacock Brooch by Graff Diamonds

Unveiled in 2013, Graff presented the most valuable brooch ever created, and guess which animal was the star? Once again, the peacock gets all the attention for $100 millions.

This statement price takes its legitimacy from the huge amount of white and colorful diamonds mounted: a total of 1305 eternal gemstones of various cuts (princess, brilliant, oval and pear). Actually, that was not enough, on top of this diamonds’ farandole, a magnificent pear-cut fancy deep blue diamond of 20.02cts is set as the bird’s body. This blue diamond is detachable and can also be worn as a pendant.

Audacity has always been the key driver for Graff, and again, this is not lacking to this extravagant jewel.  

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Peacock Brooch, Graff Diamonds, 2013.
Diamonds & White Gold. 

Peacock Earrings by Chopard

Discovered in the Animal World Collection in 2013, these proud peacocks show off their pastel colors tails.

In this creation, Chopard focuses on the materials’ variety and on the design’s originality. Indeed, the blue titanium birds’ body creates curves on which gemstones are set irregularly.  It is a beautiful waterfall of colorful stones composed of sapphires, tsavorites, amethysts and diamonds. The white gold feathers contrast with the deep blue body. The 14 delicate emerald drops are hanging, creating movement to the piece.

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Peacock Earrings, Chopard, 2013.
Diamonds, Sapphires, Emeralds, Tsavorites, Amethysts, Blue titanium & White Gold. 

Peacock Brooch by Lalique 

The peacock is a big figure of Art Nouveau, its grace, lightness and flexible body express the key features of this movement. Largely inspired by nature and birds, Lalique designed this bodice jewel with green enamel, diamonds and 23 light opals that represent the feathers’ eye. The yellow gold structure is very supple, creating curves and twists of feathers. The notion of emptiness in this creation translates refinement, fragility and ephemerality.

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Peacock Bodice Jewel, Lalique, 1900.
Enamel, Opals, Diamonds & Yellow Gold.